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ocean joy

By November 3, 2013 Jonathan

the milkshake thick swell rolled in, smashing against a weary coast, unaccustomed to such affronts. after introducing myself in (broken) Basque to the locals, they greeted me with an “ongi etorri” ( “welcome” ). the wonderfully huge and powerful shorebreak ricocheted off the highway wall and jaggered rock to shoot us up on “A” frame waves for our delight! spins and rolls, all ducking waves from every side, it was surfing comradery and wedge waves at their best! maybe it was just the day, but it seems like i keep meeting friendly surfers and bodyboarders…hope to meet many more!

 


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